A key thing that most, even the uninitiated may notice is that watches aren’t just functional tools meant for time reading, but are pieces of art as well. Many creations out there blend precision and beauty, but a good number in the space wouldn’t take you seriously if the Grand Seiko watches weren’t on your list of these. Something about this series has captivated many according to Watches of Mayfair. If you look at them and understand the creators’ approach, everything makes sense.
To fully grasp why these pieces resonate as much as they do, we have to look to the past and follow the series through the years. Once that’s done, you’ll get an understanding of how the pieces have captured many.
The journey to 1960
In the lead-up to the brand Seiko’s debut in 1960, Seikio, the parent company had done quite a bit in its 80+ year history. Just to see how far it has already come from timekeeper pocket to magic lever technology, consider the following key moments in its timepiece-making history:
- The timekeeper pocket watches’ release in 1895
- The company’s first wristwatch, the Laurel’s 1913 Creation
- “Seiko” branding’s first appearance on a wristwatch during a period when the company would cut the Seikosha name it had to the now recognizable version
- The Seiko Automatic (the first company-built automatic piece) was launched in 1956
- 1959’s putting out of the self-winding Gyro Marvel (the first of its kind in the company), which utilized the company’s proprietary magic lever
Revolutionary features
As it tended to be throughout its history even in those years, Seiko wanted to expand its horizons as it pertained to not only beauty but especially accuracy. Thus, the Grand Seiko hand watches were born, mostly out of a desire to stand toe to toe with large rivals on the world stage, who at the time, consensus believed were the Swiss. How would this Japanese production compete?
Well, the craftsmen behind its creation had it fitted with GS caliber 3180, and this allowed it to pass the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres’ standard of excellence. As a result, it became the first country to achieve this. Other things that accompanied it included a two-phase regulator, and a hacking system, plus a 45-hour reserve that allowed for accurate time-setting. Suffice it to say, the watch is not only beautiful to gaze upon, but the above elements heighten it.
Newer tech
Throughout the sixties, the Grand Seiko would continue its run of making watches that were both authentically appealing and striving for the best performance. Leading up to the 56GS’ release in 1970, a host of watches Grand Seiko were released, all of which were mechanical, and brought forward several interesting innovations.
Some of these include the following:
- 1964’s Self Dater, which had a great look, practical calendar ability and a water resistance up to 50 meters
- 1967’s 44GS, which established the “sparkle with quality” Grand Seiko style
- 1969’s 61, and 45 GS V.F.A, which delivered a ±1 minute monthly rate
Role in advancing accuracy
The mindset prevalent in the seventies persisted. However, the significant changes occurred during and after the quartz crisis of the very decade, as well as the following one. This period saw mechanical pieces, which had been the standard up to that point, get replaced by quartz technology. Said tech allowed for cheaper devices to be created, and this upset the industry, especially the Swiss side of it, which chose to remain mechanical.
Now, quartz timepieces had already been in existence before that point, and interestingly enough, Seiko’s Astron was the world’s first one in 1969. All this makes the series reaction to the changes apropos. Unlike their Swiss counterparts, they embraced the change, which was clear with their 1988 creation, the 95 GS, which did better than all other similar pieces at the time. This is a result of its great accuracy, which came at an annual ±10 seconds.
The melding of types
The late 80s and early 90s would see more quartz releases, and as we entered the new millennium, mechanical devices would resurface, coming as the 9S movement. The next step in Grand Seiko’s evolution to create the most accurate piece was to essentially bring in the best of the mechanical, and quartz worlds. What you have as a product is the spring drive, which came into existence in 99.
In 2004, the series would welcome its first spring drive, which with its electronic regulator, and tradition-based mainspring, allowed for the power through motion, and great accuracy. Beyond 2004, the spring drive would appear fairly frequently, seen 2007’s 9R8 series, and 2016’s Black Ceramic, being just two of these.
What comes next
If we are to look at another innovation of Grand Seiko, it would be 2020’s 9SA5, which promised a more accurate piece. However, that seems to be a bit of a theme here, which is that the craftsmen of Grand Seiko timepieces seek out perfection or try to get as close to it as possible on all fronts. From an aesthetic point of view, these are gorgeous watches designed to evoke Japan, often through its relationship with time, as viewed through nature.
The approach from the practical end thus far has been characterized by a desire to get perfection, and then exceed it once achieved. If the legacy of Grand Seiko were to be summed up, one word would be used; perfectionists.
Final thoughts
What’s quite interesting is that Grand Seiko always felt distinct from its parent company. So when it became its brand in 2017, it wasn’t the most surprising thing in the world, as, by this point, Grand Seiko watches have their own identity. Why is this important?
Well, it has everything you do with Grand Seiko’s identity among watchmakers, which is that of a tradition-aware, but ever-innovative creator. Their watches are stunning pieces, but as the years have shown equal value and respect should be given to their ability to lead the space, it seems like a safe bet that this continues.
